In
1976, Jesse Hardy bought 160 acres of swampland that nobody else wanted. And he
intends to keep it.
EAST OF NAPLES, TURN LEFT
AT THE BUCKET - Once, the land under Jesse Hardy's feet was an underwater reef,
and nobody owned it and nobody wanted it.
Then it became more or
less solid, part of South Florida . To the
east, the Everglades grew drier and drier. To
the west, a town called Naples
crept closer and closer. In the 1970s, developers peddling paradise dug canals,
built roads and carved the swamp into squares of empty promises. Too remote to
be developed, it stayed pretty much abandoned, except for Hardy. Looking for an
escape from Miami ,
he bought a chunk of it in 1976 and lived on it in his truck.
It was harsh, unlovely
land, miles from anything, with rocky ground, slash pines, swamp cabbage and
sand gnat swarms so thick he had to hold his breath. No electricity or sewer or
water. Hardy built a shed, then a house. Dug a well. For 30 years, nobody
bothered him. Now they won't leave him alone.
The state wants to buy
Hardy's property for its $8-billion Everglades
restoration project, which, in theory, would flood his land and everything
around it. But first, Hardy has to get out of the way, and he is not inclined
to go.
"They're trying to
get rid of me right here," says Hardy, 69. "This here land was not
worth nothing. I sat here and loved it. It ain't much, but it's been good to
me."
Hardy paid $60,000 for
his 160 acres, now valued for tax purposes at $860,000. The state offered him
$711,725 in 2002. He said no.
It offered him
$1.2-million in 2003. He said no.
$1.5-million? No.
$4.5-million? No. No. No.
"I know I'm fighting
a hell of a big person. I'm fighting the governor of Florida and his Cabinet," Hardy says.
"What they're trying
to do is take all the humans . . . bunch up people like in real close
proximity, get all the people in one damn bunch so they can say, "Don't go
out over there! A chicken'll get ya!'
"They're trying to
stop a way of life."
* * *
Some people say the
Everglades Restoration Plan is the nation's largest, most important ecological
project. Jesse Hardy is not one of those people.
The idea is to tear up
the roads and plug the canals so freshwater flows from Lake
Okeechobee to the ocean like juice spilled on a countertop, giving
habitat back to the panthers and wading birds.
Hardy insists he's not in
the Everglades , and the state can do its
science experiment without his contribution.
"The Everglades is 30 miles east, thataway," he says,
pointing.
His lawyer, Karen
Budd-Falen of Wyoming ,
has hired experts to say that his land was never underwater. It has big fat
trees on it. It's no river of grass.
"I think the state
just wants the land," she says. "He's out in the middle of nowhere,
and they don't want anybody out there."
The state would make his
land part of Picayune
Strand State
Forest , linking four
reserves that surround it. State officials and environmentalists say his
property is essential. They call it the "hole in the doughnut."
The state has already
bought or taken 1,859 parcels - more than 54,000 acres - between Interstate 75
and U.S. 41. Only the Miccosukee Indians and Hardy are still hanging on. Hardy
is the last remaining homesteader.
"There's nobody
left," Budd-Falen said.
* * *
Although Hardy is famous
and gracious with visitors, he's still sometimes portrayed as a hermit or a
swamp rat. Call him that and he will begin to cuss.
He built the house
himself, drilled the wells himself with a bit he made himself. Ask how he
learned to do these things and he will say, "I got me a book."
Life was pretty crude in
the beginning. He'd wait for a warm day to take a shower. But now he has air
conditioning, reverse osmosis, a washing machine, a cell phone, a satellite
dish. He has solar panels on the roof and a big generator out back.
He reads newspapers and
loyally watches Greta Van Susteren and Hardball. He's showing off his bathroom
- "I don't need no gold-plated plumbing to get me a good shower" -
when a Fox News alert informs him that we could all die any day.
"All they do is talk
about who's going to blow us up next," he says, and then he launches into
an analysis of the situation in the Middle East .
He lives here with a
family friend, Tara Hilton. They've never been romantically involved, but he
took her in when her son was born nine years ago. Hardy raises Tommy as his
son, plays Frisbee and basketball with him, pays for his $45-an-hour tutor,
hangs his crayon art on the walls.
"He never would've
had no chance for no daddy or nothing," Hardy says.
He supports his family
and pays his lawyers with a sizable limestone mining operation. A couple of
hundred trucks run on and off his land every day, hauling $18 profit each.
The pits fill with water
from below the surface, and he stocks them with catfish, bream and turtles. He
wants to run a fish farm here and leave it to Tommy when he's gone. So far,
Tommy won't eat the fish they catch here. He thinks they're pets.
With the money the state
has offered, Hardy could live pretty much wherever he wants. But he's already
there. Girlfriends have told him it's too lonely here. But he has never felt
that way.
"Let me tell you
about being lonely," he says. "You could be in a roomful of people
and be lonely as hell. I've been in Miami
when I was just lonely as hell. Out here, for some reason, I've never been
lonely."
* * *
In April, when Hardy was
in the hospital with prostate cancer, Tara and Tommy went to Tallahassee to plead his case to the governor
and Cabinet.
"We want to do it so
the people of Collier
County can bring their
sons and their little girls to come out to fish and play in the dirt," she
said, "and have a place for kids to be kids, because all these places are
disappearing."
She told him how deer
come up to the house windows. And about the wild boar - "a piney wood
rooter" - that came out of the woods and started living under the house.
That made the governor chuckle.
"We're not trying to
stop any projects," she said. "If you would just let us stay and it
floods, we'll swim out and give you the land."
Gov. Jeb Bush asked his
staff to look at ways to work around Hardy, or let him sign away his right to
sue if he ended up treading water.
"I'm just breaking
out in a rash just thinking about this," Bush said. He shook Tommy's hand.
But his staff said
letting Hardy stay won't work. In May, Bush ordered eminent domain proceedings
so the state can force Hardy off.
All the players will sit
down for formal mediation in March - more offers and counteroffers. If that
doesn't work, they'll have a two-day hearing, probably in April. Hardy's
attorneys have also filed suit in federal court. They can't predict how this
will turn out.
"Who knows?"
Budd-Falen said. "But I think a lot of people underestimate Jesse Hardy,
that's for sure."
* * *
There has been a lot of
talk lately about what the land is worth.
"That's a hard
question," Hardy says. "It depends what they're going to let you do
with it. I could put houses, an RV park, make a fortune. Hell, I could have
trailers lined up here to Timbuktu ."
But that's not really
what he wants. And he says it's not the point.
"This is mine,"
he says. "This is mine, by God. It's my damn land. It ain't for
sale."
The first time he saw it,
it reminded him of land he would look at through fences as a little boy.
He grew up around Port
St. Joe, where the St. Joe Paper Co. owned almost a million acres. Its paper
mill opened when Hardy was 3, and he hated the mill and the company his whole
life.
He grew up without
electricity on an acre or two in the woods. His mother took in laundry, washed
it in a pot and hung it on a line. She tried to move them away from the mill,
but the stink followed.
"It was a brutal g-
d-- mill," he says. "Mama said it's killin' all of us. The fumes were
so bad she couldn't hang clothes. She'd say that stink is dripping out of the
sky."
The paper company cut
ditches and rights of way and put up fences. Now a realty company, it is still
the largest private landowner in the state. As a kid, Hardy couldn't find land
to hunt or fish. The oysters and clams in St. Joseph Bay
tasted bad. One day after a storm, he found his swimming hole filled with sand.
He felt small.
"I knew land was
power because I couldn't get to it," he says. "I learned that as a
kid because we couldn't go hunting, we couldn't go fishing or nothing. I've
never had anything."
He left the Panhandle for
the Navy SEALs, where he was disabled in a training jump. When he got out, he
got a real estate license and worked as a property appraiser in Miami . He also made
fishing nets, ran a vegetable stand and worked for the Port Authority.
His 160 acres of swamp
was the first land he ever bought.
"This is all I've
ever owned," he says. "I knew it was power."
Hardy is pitching whole
slices of moldy bread into his fish pond. The big oscars are attacking like
terriers.
"I love
nature," he says. "I've got more environmentalist in my little finger
than they've got."
He's talking about the
state Department of Environmental Protection. And the Florida Wildlife
Federation and the Audubon Society and the South Florida Water Management
District and everyone else who has ganged up to pressure him to sell.
"The
environmentalists, that is our problem," Hardy says. "That's America 's
problem.
"I'm not talking
about no scorched-earth policy. What I'm talking about is sense. We're up to
our armpits in alligators because people are just crazy. They're fanatics.
"In the paper today,
there's a story about damn red-cockaded woodpeckers and they're saving them and
going through all kind of hell. People are not running around shooting
red-cockaded woodpeckers. I haven't shot one in 20 or 30 years.
"God, spare me from
the damn environmentalists, 'cause they are the cause of me being in the jam
I'm in."
* * *
Nancy Payton is one of
those damn environmentalists.
To her face, "it's
usually Ms. Payton," she says. She represents the Florida Wildlife
Federation, which supports the restoration plan. She has dealt with Hardy for
years.
She's heard about how
much he loves his land. She's skeptical about that.
"I have a hard time
digesting "I love the land, but I'll sell it off truckload by truckload,'
" she says. "I think it is about the money."
She says his limestone
operation is bad for the environment because his ponds interrupt the way the
land drains. Hardy and his attorney dispute that.
Payton acknowledges that
Hardy has a fan base in Naples .
There's even a folk song about him, The Ballad of Jesse Hardy, which you can
listen to on his Web site, www.jessehardy.com
"He periodically
gets a lot of coverage because he is kind of likable," Payton said.
"There are also people who are a bit exasperated."
Budd-Falen, Hardy's
attorney, grew up on a fifth-generation cattle ranch. She said it can be hard
even for people who love the environment to understand people like Jesse Hardy.
"Sometimes
environmentalists are not about protecting the environment, they're about
stopping use," she says. "Isn't that what the King of Nottingham did
in Robin Hood?"
Hardy acknowledges that
he makes money off his land, although he sends a lot of it to lawyers.
He says he doesn't need
it. He doesn't really want anything except to leave something to Tommy.
"I don't need no
cruises," he says. "I went on some nice long cruises in the
Navy."
He says he fights because
it's in him to fight. But he also says this land is what he has to leave
behind.
"It's for the people
of Collier County ," he says. "They'll
say, "There's that fish farm that Hardy built, and we're still getting
fish off it.' "
If the state gets the
land, he figures they'll put a fence around it.
He can't stand the
thought of that. Of some little boy on the other side of it, looking in.
-- Kelley Benham can be
reached at 727 893-8848 or benham@sptimes.com
If you'd like to know
more about the Everglades Restoration Plan, click on www.evergladesplan.org Jesse Hardy's Web site is www.jessehardy.com
[Last modified February
28, 2005, 17:04:02]
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